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Though grown in the Loire and the Mâconnais too, this grape reigns supreme in Beaujolais. Nearly always its style is as a good-time gulper, low in tannin with fresh, mid-weight strawberry and cherry fruit. Yet in the granite hills of the Beaujolais Cru, it produces seriously rich, meaty keepers from villages such as Morgon and Moulin á Vent and silky, superbly elegant reds from appellations such as Juliénas.
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