Domaine Quatre Chemins Chablis 2021

Until Isabelle Gautheron took over the family's 5.6-hectare estate, all the grapes were sold off to Beaune négociants. Isabelle, however, had other plans and wanted to make the wine herself. Her first-release was the 2016. Her mosaic of tiny vineyards lie in Fontenay-Prés-Chablis in the northeast of the appellation, close to the Grands Crus. Most vines are over 30 years old, planted on southeast-facing slopes to lap up the sunshine. 2021 saw a return to cooler temperatures, so that "the wines are strikingly refreshing and tension filled" (Burghound). Acute spring frosts and the threat of mildew meant yields were well down, but those grapes that escaped have produced exceptional wine. With a bright citrus core, this is a fine seafood white.