Torresilo 1998

If you're a lover of fine Spanish reds, then you may have heard of Cillar de Silos. They're a family owned producer of very fine Tempranillo from possibly the region's finest and oldest vineyards. (Some even pre-date phylloxera.) Well over a century old and lying at high altitude, their vines produce wine of superb elegance and complexity. After studying winemaking in Rioja and travelling the world, Oscar Aragón returned to his family's estate determined to maximise its potential. And he certainly succeeded. Aged for 16 months in new French oak, his flagship red offers layers of silky dark fruit, mocha and nutmeg. And now, with 22 years of maturity, this 1998 makes for a real treat, alongside duck or game. Only decant if there's sediment.